Usually when things are complicated, it means more stress, more work, and more effort, but in the end, it's worth it. The same holds true for vintage wristwatches, where gifted artisans and engineers from years gone by labored months and years to create complicated timepieces that transcend art and talent. When it comes to vintage wristwatches, the highest realms of respect and value are reserved for these watches that do much more than merely tell time.

In the 1940s, a complicated wristwatch was not about spectacle - it was about mastery. Before the era of mass luxury production, calendar watches represented serious watchmaking. They required careful engineering, precise tolerances, and thoughtful dial design to balance multiple indications without sacrificing legibility.

Today's offering showcases one of these desirable watches. Powered by a complicated, original Universal Geneve movement, this example, reference 21302, watch possesses advanced capabilities that track the date, day of the week, and month, earning it its place as a true "Triple Calendar".

It is a display of beautiful precision that can be worn everyday.

While a number of Swiss firms at various tiers of quality made triple date, we think that the UG one's like this one have some of the most balanced aesthetics with restraint and proportion. Their triple calendars from the post-war period reflect that practical, refined, and distinctly mid-century in character. And like on the very finest makers, the company had their own in-house movement developed and produced at the company's workshop in Geneva.

Beating inside this watch is Universal Geneve’s in-house caliber 291.

Its full size, attractive case has broad lugs that make it wear just slight larger than even its 34mm by 42mm dimensions - a confident and highly wearable size for the era. The proportions give it presence without excess.

The case is in better than excellent condition with strong lines. It shows only very light wear and hardly any signs of previous polishing. It still retains its original factory applied satin finish on the back.

Its silver dial with its cut outs for displaying the month and day and luminous markers, has a pleasing design - it is original and untouched - and its luminous blue steel diamond hands give it character. It has warmed with patina to a light sepia tone giving it a true vintage look. Please inquire if you would like it expertly restored.

And its complicated Univeral Geneve caliber 291 movement is very clean.

One of our Master Watchmakers has disassembled it down to its last screw and cleaned and oiled. After more than eight decades, it is running very strongly and keeping very accurate time. All calendar functions work correctly.

For the finishing touch, we have equipped it with a brand new Teju lizard strap making it ready for immediate enjoyment.

Included with the purchase is a one-year C.O.T. international warranty on the movement and its function, a full-page custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity, and a new timing certificate.

Your watch is important to us, and we will take care of it for its lifetime. We provide the best after sale care in the business with an extremely experienced team of four Master Watchmakers all of whom each have over thirty-five years of experience and a large number of parts. One used to be the watchmaker for an authorized Rolex dealership and was given training by Rolex at their Beverly Hills Service Center.

Universal Geneve:

Since 1894, the fine Swiss firm Universal Geneve has produced very fine and collectible timekeeping instruments. The company that popularized the idea of the modern chronograph wristwatch, Universal Geneve has produced a number of exceptional timers, including the renowned Tri-Compax. The superior quality of their vintage offerings have earned them a place alongside those of Jaeger-LeCoultre and other of the world's fine watchmakers.

Manufacturer: Universal Geneve
Country of origin: Switzerland, made for the U.S. market
Year built: c. 1943
Function: Hours, Minutes, Day, Date, Month, Subsidiary Seconds
Case no.: 945,657
Model: Ref. 21302 Triple Date Calendar
Case material: Stainless steel
Case markings (inside): Universal Geneve, Enversteel
Case condition: The case is in better than excellent condition with strong lines. It shows only very light wear and hardly any signs of previous polishing. It still retains its original factory applied satin finish on the back.
Dimensions: 34mm wide (excluding crown), 42mm long lug tip-to-tip
Dial: Silver (now warmed to a light sepia tone), luminous painted Arabic and dot indices, printing in black with red 31, apertures for day, and sub dials for date, month, and continuous seconds, subdials in English, original and untouched. Please inquire if you would like it expertly restored.
Hands: Original, blue steel luminous "diamonds"
Movement type: High-grade, manually wound, rectangular, cal. 291 rhodium plated, "fausses cotes" decoration, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, Breguet coilover balance spring
Movement markings: Universal Geneve, Swiss, 281, movement number
Band: Teju lizard, fully stitched, padded, brand new and unworn. We also stock lizard and a variety of other straps in various prints, skins, and colors. Please ask us if you're interested.
Width between lugs: 16mm
Crystal type: Acylic, excellent condition
Serviced: One of our Master Watchmakers has disassembled it down to its last screw and cleaned and oiled. All calendar functions work correctly.
Timing: After more than eight decades, it is running very strongly and keeping very accurate time
Warranty: 1-year international warranty. Please email concierge@cotwatches.com for details. Your watch is important to us, and we will take care of it for its lifetime. We provide the best after sale care in the business with an extremely experienced team of four Master Watchmakers all of whom each have over thirty-five years of experience and a large number of parts. One used to be the watchmaker for an authorized Rolex dealership and was given training by Rolex at their Beverly Hills Service Center.
Box/Papers: BOX - Connoisseur of Time watch presentation box; PAPERS - Custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity; New timing certificate
Returns: 7 days full refund. 100% satisfaction guarantee

We offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee for all of our watches. If you are in any way unsatisfied with the watch we will fully refund the purchase price anytime within 7 days after the watch has been received. Our goal is to exceed our client's expectations throughout the buying experience.

All watches are packaged carefully and mailed double boxed in specially constructed, reinforced shipping boxes designed for high value items. All watches are sent fully insured with signature required. Most of our domestic shipping is done through FedEx. At times we will also use USPS Express Mail, and we can accommodate most requests for your preferred carrier. International shipments are sent USPS International Express Mail or FedEx.

The purchase price will be the declared value of the merchandise on any required customs forms. The payment of all customs duties, tariffs, and taxes are the responsibility of the buyer.

Also note that water resistance of vintage watches can no longer be guaranteed and is not covered under the watch's warranty. We do not recommend getting a vintage watch wet, even one that was originally designed to be waterproof.

To get an idea of how this watch will look on the wrist, please use the Watch Sizing Guide

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