1985 Ed Heuer Mens Rare 125th Anniversary Ref. 188.215 Moon Phase "Golden Hours" Chronograph - 18K Gold Plated & Stainless Steel

TAG Heuer

Item No. 9403

Today's offering showcases this quite uncommon and very fine Heuer "Golden Hours" chronograph with moon phase and date.

Released in 1985 as part of a collection to commemorate Heuer's 125th anniversary, shortly after their merger with TAG, it harkens back to the company's roots of making very fine mechanical watches.

Powering it is a superior Lemania 1883 movement, likely a practical choice at the time, but also an apt choice given its quality and Lemanias close ties to Heuer.

Moderately sized and elegant, it packs a lot in a small package. Its dial is nicely balanced and quite complicated, and the gold subdial surrounds add even more elegance.

I think these watches are significantly undervalued given their rarity, complexity, movement quality, beauty, and increasing collectableness of Heuers, and will be a good long term buy. This is an awfully complicated, high quality, rare watch for the money.

It is in beautiful condition with all original parts down to the original buckle and the back is still covered by what appears to be the original protective sticker.

Its case presents as better than near mint. It has never been polished or replated. Its untouched original dial is mint. And its complicated movement is very clean.

One of our Master Watchmakers has fully serviced the watch which consists of fully disassembling the very complicated movement, carefully inspecting each part, broaching out the cannon pinion, reassembling and lubricating the movement, and extensive timing testing and regulation (a $995 value).

All functions work well, and it is running very strongly. The chronograph resets to a perfect 12.

For the finishing touch, we have equipped it with a brand new leather strap and the watch's original Heuer buckle and meticulously detailed it making it ready for immediate enjoyment.

Included with the purchase is a one-year C.O.T. international warranty on the movement and its function, a full-page custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity, and a new timing certificate.

  • Country of origin: Switzerland
  • Maker: Heuer (Tag Heuer)
  • Year made: c. 1985
  • Model: Ref. 188.215/1
  • Functions:  Hours, Minutes, Quick-Setting Date (advanced by corrector), Continuous Seconds, Moonphase, Full Chronograph
  • Designed for: Men
  • Case material: Gold plated and stainless steel
  • Case condition: Presents as better than near mint with a few light scratches. It has never been polished or replated. The back is still covered by what appears to be the original protective sticker.
  • Dimensions: 34mm diameter (without the crown) by 42.5mm long
  • Dial: White with black painted vintage styled Arabic indexes, gold rimmed subdials for the moonphase/date, continuous seconds, 30 minute and 12-hour registers, original, mint condition
  • Hands: Original, blackened 18K gold "epees"
  • Movement type:  Lemania 1883 finished by Heuer, rhodium plated, handwound, 17 jewels, monometallic balance, flat self-compensating balance spring, shock resistant, screw fine regulator
  • Band: Leather, fully stitched, padded, brand new and unworn with the watch's original gold-plated buckle
  • Crystal: Acrylic, original, excellent condition
  • Serviced: One of our Master Watchmaker has fully serviced the watch which consists of fully disassembling the very complicated movement, carefully inspecting each part, broaching out the cannon pinnion, reassembling and lubricating the movement, and extensive timing testing and regulation (a $995 value).
  • Timing: Timed on a state-of-the-art computerized system. It is running very strongly, keeping accurate time.
  • Warranty: 1-year C.O.T. international warranty. Please email concierge@cotwatches.com for details. Your watch is important to us, and we will take care of it for its lifetime. We provide the best after sale care in the business with an extremely experienced team of four Master Watchmakers all of whom each have over thirty-five years of experience and a large number of parts. One used to be the watchmaker for an authorized Rolex dealership and was given special training by Rolex at their Beverly Hills Service Center.
  • Box/Papers: BOX - Connoisseur of Time watch presentation box; PAPERS - Custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity; New timing certificate
  • Returns: 7 days full refund. 100% satisfaction guarantee

We offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee for all of our watches. If you are in any way unsatisfied with the watch we will fully refund the purchase price anytime within 7 days after the watch has been received. Our goal is to exceed our client's expectations throughout the buying experience.

All watches are packaged carefully and mailed double boxed in specially constructed, reinforced shipping boxes designed for high value items. All watches are sent fully insured with signature required. Most of our domestic shipping is done through FedEx. At times we will also use USPS Express Mail, and we can accommodate most requests for your preferred carrier. International shipments are sent USPS International Express Mail or FedEx.

The purchase price will be the declared value of the merchandise on any required customs forms. The payment of all customs duties, tariffs, and taxes are the responsibility of the buyer.

Also note that water resistance of vintage watches can no longer be guaranteed and is not covered under the watch's warranty. We do not recommend getting a vintage watch wet, even one that was originally designed to be waterproof.

To get an idea of how this watch will look on the wrist, please use the Watch Sizing Guide

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