1936 Patek Philippe Vintage Calatrava Ref. 96 Mens Watch, Stainless Steel with Extract - The Original

Patek Philippe

Item No. 7568

Arguably the company's most well-known vintage model, the Ref. 96, introduced in the 1930's, was Patek Philippe's first creation for its Calatrava collection, seldom seen in stainless steel.

It is the original Calatrava...a true icon, occupying a prestigious place among the great wristwatches of the 19th century and the first model of what many consider today to be the most elegant and distinguished line of dress watches: the Calatrava. Launched in 1932, it was not only the first Calatrava, but also one of Patek Philippe’s first models to have a reference number.

The watch showcases sleek lines and subtle elegance, expressing artistic originality at its very finest. As Patek Philippe aptly describes, "These inimitably elegant men's watches are impervious to short-lived trends, recapturing the hearts of each new generation."

The reference 96 was also amongst Patek’s first models to showcase the Bauhaus design principle of “form follows function”. It achieves its powerful impact through the use of clean, simple, and elegant lines. While most 96's had subsidiary seconds, this is an uncommon sweep seconds version.

Many consider the 96 the model against which all dress watches should be judged – the true standard bearer for the category.

Made in limited production most within the first decade of the 96's production, steel cased dials are especially sought after.

Its elegant steel Calatrava case presents nicely. Its silver dial with Breguet numerals is a restoration. And its high-grade, Patek Philippe movement is running strong and true. Photos of the inside available upon request.

One of our watchmakers has disassembled it down to its last screw and cleaned and oiled it.

For the finishing touch it comes equipped it with a Patek Philippe strap making it ready for immediate enjoyment.

Also acccompanying it is an Extract from the Pateck Philippe Archives attesting to its authenticity and that its dial and case number match the Patek records and note that the current dial was not mentioned in the Archives.

Included with the purchase is a one-year C.O.T. warranty on the movement and its function and a new timing certificate.

A nice, brief article (.pdf format) on the Reference 96 can be found on-line here.

  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
  • Country of origin: Switzerland
  • Serial no.: 827,103 - Note that the serial number on this watch is only 267 away from another rare ref. 96 Patek we have for sale with a sector dial.
  • Year built: 1936 - sold Oct. 6th, 1936
  • Model: Ref. 96 Calatrava
  • Functions: Hours, Minutes, Subsidiary Seconds
  • Designed for: Men
  • Case material: Stainless steel
  • Case markings (inside): Patek Philippe & Co, F.B. (for François Borgel), Geneve, Staybrite Rustless Steel, 613,083
  • Case condition: Excellent. Previously polished and presents as scratch-free.
  • Dimensions: 30.5mm wide (excluding crown), 38.5mm long lug tip-to-tip 
  • Dial: Silver with black painted Breguet indexes, subsidiary seconds dial, outer minutes track, a restoration
  • Hands: Blue steel "modernes", replacements
  • Movement type: Cal. 12’’’-120 PS, rhodium-plated, “fausses côtes” decoration, 18 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance, blued steel Breguet balance spring, index regulator
  • Movement markings: Patek, Philippe & Co., Geneve, 827,103
  • Band: Patek Philippe, fully stitched, padded, with unsigned buckle, excellent condition. We also stock lizard and a variety of other new straps in various prints, skins, and colors. Please ask us if you're interested.
  • Width between lugs: 18mm
  • Crystal: Acrylic, excellent condition
  • Servicing: One of our watchmakers has disassembled it down to its last screw and cleaned and oiled it making it ready for immediate enjoyment.
  • Timing: Timed to precision on a state-of-the-art computerized system. Your watch is important to us, and we will take care of it for its lifetime. We provide the best after sale care in the business with an experienced team of watchmakers both of whom each have over forty years of experience and a large number of parts.
  • Warranty: 1-year international warranty. Please email concierge@cotwatches.com for details.
  • Box/Papers: BOX - Connoisseur of Time watch presentation box; PAPERS - Extract from the Patek Archives
  • Returns: 7 days full refund. 100% satisfaction guarantee

We offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee for all of our watches. If you are in any way unsatisfied with the watch we will fully refund the purchase price anytime within 7 days after the watch has been received. Our goal is to exceed our client's expectations throughout the buying experience.

All watches are packaged carefully and mailed double boxed in specially constructed, reinforced shipping boxes designed for high value items. All watches are sent fully insured with signature required. Most of our domestic shipping is done through FedEx. At times we will also use USPS Express Mail, and we can accommodate most requests for your preferred carrier. International shipments are sent USPS International Express Mail or FedEx.

The purchase price will be the declared value of the merchandise on any required customs forms. The payment of all customs duties, tariffs, and taxes are the responsibility of the buyer.

Also note that water resistance of vintage watches can no longer be guaranteed and is not covered under the watch's warranty. We do not recommend getting a vintage watch wet, even one that was originally designed to be waterproof.

To get an idea of how this watch will look on the wrist, please use the Watch Sizing Guide


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