1940's Patek Philippe Vintage Calatrava Ref. 96, 18K Gold - Breguet Dial

Patek Philippe

Item No. 5290SH

Arguably the company's most well-known vintage model, the Ref. 96, introduced in the 1930's, was Patek Philippe's first creation from the Calatrava collection. It is the original Calatrava...a true classic, occupying a prestigious place among the great wristwatches of the 19th century.

Featuring an elegant, understated face and beautiful case, the watch showcases sleek lines and subtle elegance, expressing artistic originality at its very finest. As Patek Philippe aptly describes, "These inimitably elegant men's watches are impervious to short-lived trends, recapturing the hearts of each new generation."

While most 96's came with stick markers Patek also made them with Breguet numerals. These are much rarer and more desirable than the stick marker dial examples.

It is fully original down to the dial, hour and minute hands, and winding crown.

The elegant, 18K gold Calatrava case is in excellent condition. The original 'Breguet' dial is in excellent condition. The high-grade, Patek Philippe movement is clean.

Our watchmaker has freshly cleaned and oiled the movement. Photos of the inside available upon request.

Included with the purchase is a one-year C.O.T. warranty on the movement and its function, a custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity, and a new timing certificate.

  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
  • Country of origin: Switzerland
  • Year built: c. 1940's
  • Model: Ref. 96 Calatrava
  • Functions: Hours, Minutes, Subsidiary Seconds
  • Designed for: Men
  • Case material: 18K gold
  • Case markings (inside): Patek Philippe & Co, Geneve, Swiss, 0.750
  • Case condition: Excellent
  • Dimensions: 30.5mm wide (excluding crown), 38.5mm long lug tip-to-tip 
  • Dial: Matte silver with applied gold Breguet indexes, outer minute dots, sunk guilloche subsidiary dial for the seconds, original finish, one marker looks to have been re-applied, excellent condition
  • Hands: Original, gold, "feuilles"
  • Movement type: Cal. 12’’’-120, rhodium-plated, “fausses côtes” decoration, 18 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance, blued steel Breguet balance spring, swan-neck micrometer regulator
  • Movement markings: Patek, Philippe & Co., Eighteen (18) Jewels, Adjusted Five (5) Positions, Three (3) Heat, Cold, Isochromism, Geneve, Swiss
  • Band: Crocodile, fully stitched, padded, brand new and unworn
  • Width between lugs: 18mm
  • Crystal type: Excellent condition
  • Serviced: Yes, cleaned and oiled. Your watch is important to us, and we will take care of it for its lifetime. We provide the best after sale care in the business with an experienced team of watchmakers both of whom each have over forty years of experience and a large number of parts.
  • Warranty: 1-year warranty. Please email concierge@cotwatches.com for details
  • Box/Papers: BOX - Connoisseur of Time watch presentation box; PAPERS - Custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity; New timing certificate
  • Returns: 7 days full refund. 100% satisfaction guarantee

We offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee for all of our watches. If you are in any way unsatisfied with the watch we will fully refund the purchase price anytime within 7 days after the watch has been received. Our goal is to exceed our client's expectations throughout the buying experience.

All watches are packaged carefully and mailed double boxed in specially constructed, reinforced shipping boxes designed for high value items. All watches are sent fully insured with signature required. Most of our domestic shipping is done through FedEx. At times we will also use USPS Express Mail, and we can accommodate most requests for your preferred carrier. International shipments are sent USPS International Express Mail or FedEx.

The purchase price will be the declared value of the merchandise on any required customs forms. The payment of all customs duties, tariffs, and taxes are the responsibility of the buyer.

Also note that water resistance of vintage watches can no longer be guaranteed and is not covered under the watch's warranty. We do not recommend getting a vintage watch wet, even one that was originally designed to be waterproof.

To get an idea of how this watch will look on the wrist, please use the Watch Sizing Guide

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