1955 J. Auricoste Vintage Mens French Type 20 (Breguet XX style) Flyback Military Chronograph Watch

J. Auricoste

Item No. 7168SH

Today's offering showcases this very cool and rare Auricoste Type XX French military flyback chronograph issued to the French Air Force. It's a great looking watch in a niche that has become increasingly very collectable.

It is one of only approximately 2000 made, and it has a rare original hand configuration that I have only seen on a handful of these watches.

In 1954, the Type 20 chronographs were commissioned by the French government for the French Air Force, the CEV (Centre d’Essai en Vol) – the country’s state-sanctioned flight testing centre – and most famous for the Aéronautique navale, a.k.a. “Aéronavale,” the air arm of the French Navy. The most famous of these is the Breguet version of this watch which carries a price tag up from $30,000 - $50,000.

The specifications for a Type 20 included an instantaneous flyback function, reliable stop-start function for at least 300 operations, variation of no more than 8 seconds over 24 hours and a power reserve of 35 hours.

It is powered by a Lemania 2040 with Breguet hairspring.

It is very honest and original down to the dial, hands, original crown, and pushers. The back retains all of its various original commissioning and servicing markings from 1955 until its retirement in 1983. It has never been polished.

One of our watchmakers has disassembled it down to its last screw and cleaned and oiled it. It is very clean and is running strong and true. Photos of the inside available upon request.

For the finishing touch we have equipped it with an oil tanned leather strap making it ready for immediate enjoyment.

Included with the purchase is a one-year international warranty on the movement and its function, a custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity, and a new timing certificate.

It's a great full size watch to casually wear both indoors and outdoors.

  • Manufacturer: J. Auricoste
  • Country of origin: Switzerland
  • Year entered service: c. 1955
  • Model: Ref. Type 20
  • Serial no.: 802,369
  • Functions: Hours, Minutes, Chronograph (Flyback), Subsidiary Seconds
  • Designed for: Men
  • Case material: Chrome plated base metal with stainless steel back
  • Case condition: Honest original condition, never polished. Pleasing condition with a short scratch on the side of the top right lug, light wear to the high points of the bezel and underneath the lugs, and a small ding on the edge of the back. Presents very nicely on the wrist.
  • Dial: Matte black with silver subdials for the continuous seconds and 30-minute registers, outer 1/5 second/minute markings, luminous Arabic indices, original, just short of mint condition
  • Dimensions: 38mm wide (excluding crown), 46mm lugs tip-to-tip
  • Hands: Original luminous steel 'batons' with rare style relumed almost certainly during regular military re-servicing, original 30 second and continuous seconds
  • Movement type: Signed Auricoste, Lemania 2040 with Breguet hairpsring, manually wound, rhodium plated, shock resistant
  • Movement markings: J. Auricoste Watch Co. , Seventeen Rubis, Type 20, 802,369
  • Jewels: 17 rubies
  • Band: Oil tanned leather, fully stitched, padded, brand new and unworn. We also stock lizard and a variety of others straps in various prints, skins, and colors. Please ask us if you're interested.
  • Crystal: Acrylic, original or a correct service replacement, good honest condition with light wear around the edge
  • Servicing: One of our watchmakers has disassembled it down to its last screw and cleaned and oiled it. The movement is very clean.
  • Timing: Timed to precision on a state-of-the-art computerized system. Your watch is important to us, and we will take care of it for its lifetime. We provide the best after sale care in the business with an experienced team of watchmakers both of whom each have over forty years of experience and a large number of parts.
  • Warranty: 1-year international warranty. Please email concierge@cotwatches.com for details
  • Box/Papers: BOX - Connoisseur of Time watch presentation box; PAPERS - Custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity; New timing certificate
  • Returns: 7 days full refund. 100% satisfaction guarantee

We offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee for all of our watches. If you are in any way unsatisfied with the watch we will fully refund the purchase price anytime within 7 days after the watch has been received. Our goal is to exceed our client's expectations throughout the buying experience.

All watches are packaged carefully and mailed double boxed in specially constructed, reinforced shipping boxes designed for high value items. All watches are sent fully insured with signature required. Most of our domestic shipping is done through FedEx. At times we will also use USPS Express Mail, and we can accommodate most requests for your preferred carrier. International shipments are sent USPS International Express Mail or FedEx.

The purchase price will be the declared value of the merchandise on any required customs forms. The payment of all customs duties, tariffs, and taxes are the responsibility of the buyer.

Also note that water resistance of vintage watches can no longer be guaranteed and is not covered under the watch's warranty. We do not recommend getting a vintage watch wet, even one that was originally designed to be waterproof.

To get an idea of how this watch will look on the wrist, please use the Watch Sizing Guide


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