1936 Patek Philippe Vintage Calatrava Ref. 96 Mens Watch, 18K Gold with Extract - Extremely Rare Sector Dial

Patek Philippe

Item No. 7211

Arguably the company's most well-known vintage model, the Ref. 96, introduced in the 1930's, was Patek Philippe's first creation for its Calatrava collection.

It is the original Calatrava...a true icon, occupying a prestigious place among the great wristwatches of the 19th century and the first model of what many consider today to be the most elegant and distinguished line of dress watches: the Calatrava. Launched in 1932, it was not only the first Calatrava, but also one of Patek Philippe’s first models to have a reference number.

Featuring an elegant, understated face and beautiful case, the watch showcases sleek lines and subtle elegance, expressing artistic originality at its very finest. As Patek Philippe aptly describes, "These inimitably elegant men's watches are impervious to short-lived trends, recapturing the hearts of each new generation."

The reference 96 was also amongst Patek’s first models to showcase the Bauhaus design principle of “form follows function”. It achieves its powerful impact through the use of clean, simple, and elegant lines. While most 96's had subsidiary seconds, this is an uncommon sweep seconds version.

Many consider the 96 the model against which all dress watches should be judged – the true standard bearer for the category.

Made in limited production in the first years of the 96's production, sector dials are especially rare and sought after.

We were fortunate to acquire this awesome sector dial 96. It has all original parts down to all hands and the winding crown

Its elegant, 18K gold Calatrava case is in excellent condition. Its extremely rare sector dial - confirmed by Patek to be original to the watch - is a vintage restoration and presents very nicely. And its high-grade, Patek Philippe movement is running strong and true.

One of our watchmakers has disassembled it down to its last screw and cleaned and oiled it.

For the finishing touch we have equipped it with a brand new crocodile strap making it ready for immediate enjoyment. Accompanying the watch is an 18K gold vintage Patek Philippe buckle.

Also acccompanying it is an Extract from the Pateck Philippe Archives attesting to its originality.

Included with the purchase is a one-year C.O.T. warranty on the movement and its function and a new timing certificate.

A nice, brief article (.pdf format) on the Reference 96 can be found on-line here.

Payment by bank wire only.

  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
  • Country of origin: Switzerland
  • Serial no.: 827,370
  • Year built: 1936 - sold April 13th, 1937
  • Model: Ref. 96 Calatrava
  • Functions: Hours, Minutes, Subsidiary Seconds
  • Designed for: Men
  • Case material: 18K gold
  • Case markings (inside): Patek Philippe & Co, Geneve, Swiss, 0.750, 294,671
  • Case condition: Excellent. Previously polished and presents as scratch-free.
  • Dimensions: 30.5mm wide (excluding crown), 38.5mm long lug tip-to-tip 
  • Dial: Two-tone silver with applied gold Arabic indexes and black enamel baton markers dividing the dial into sectors, inner minutes/seconds track, outer minutes/seconds track with 1/5 second increments, restored in vintage times, presents nicely
  • Hands: Original, gold, "feuilles" with original counterweighted blue steel seconds
  • Movement type: Cal. 12’’’-120 SC, rhodium-plated, “fausses côtes” decoration, 18 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance, blued steel Breguet balance spring, swan-neck micrometer regulator
  • Movement markings: Patek, Philippe & Co., Twenty (20) Jewels, Adjusted Five (5) Positions, Three (3) Heat, Cold, Isochromism, Geneve, Swiss, 827,370
  • Band: Crocodile, fully stitched, padded, brand new and unworn with unsigned gold tone buckle. Also included is a vintage 18K gold Patek Philippe buckle in their usual 14mm size that would fit a band that tapers slightly more. We do have a previously worn Patek Philippe band that we suspect would fit both the band and buckle. Please inquire for confirmation and price. We also stock lizard and a variety of others straps in various prints, skins, and colors. Please ask us if you're interested.
  • Width between lugs: 18mm
  • Crystal type: Acrylic, new-old-stock
  • Servicing: One of our watchmakers has disassembled it down to its last screw and cleaned and oiled it making it ready for immediate enjoyment.
  • Timing: Timed to precision on a state-of-the-art computerized system. Your watch is important to us, and we will take care of it for its lifetime. We provide the best after sale care in the business with an experienced team of watchmakers both of whom each have over forty years of experience and a large number of parts.
  • Warranty: 1-year international warranty. Please email concierge@cotwatches.com for details.
  • Box/Papers: BOX - Connoisseur of Time watch presentation box; PAPERS - Extract from the Patek Archives; Custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity
  • Returns: 7 days full refund. 100% satisfaction guarantee

We offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee for all of our watches. If you are in any way unsatisfied with the watch we will fully refund the purchase price anytime within 7 days after the watch has been received. Our goal is to exceed our client's expectations throughout the buying experience.

All watches are packaged carefully and mailed double boxed in specially constructed, reinforced shipping boxes designed for high value items. All watches are sent fully insured with signature required. Most of our domestic shipping is done through FedEx. At times we will also use USPS Express Mail, and we can accommodate most requests for your preferred carrier. International shipments are sent USPS International Express Mail or FedEx.

The purchase price will be the declared value of the merchandise on any required customs forms. The payment of all customs duties, tariffs, and taxes are the responsibility of the buyer.

Also note that water resistance of vintage watches can no longer be guaranteed and is not covered under the watch's warranty. We do not recommend getting a vintage watch wet, even one that was originally designed to be waterproof.

To get an idea of how this watch will look on the wrist, please use the Watch Sizing Guide


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