Omega’s Seamaster line has long been central to the brand’s identity in professional and recreational diving. By the late 1960s, Omega had already established itself as a serious competitor in the dive watch space, making watches that were reliable underwater instruments and refined enough for everyday wear.

Produced during the golden age of recreational diving, the Seamaster 120 arrived at a moment when underwater exploration had captured the public imagination. Jacques Cousteau's films, advances in scuba technology, and growing interest in ocean exploration created demand for watches that could accompany their owners beneath the surface. Omega answered with models such as the Seamaster 120, a watch that balanced genuine diving capability with everyday practicality.

The Seamaster 120 models represent an important evolution in that lineage. Positioned between the dressier Seamasters and the more specialized Seamaster 300, they were designed for real-world use - divers, sailors, and professionals who needed durability and legibility.

In its day it would have been been a versatile tool watch, and a robust diving timepiece competing with Rolex sports watches from the era.

Today's auction showcases this uncommon and large-for-the-era vintage Seamaster 120M ref. 166.088 with orignial bakelite diver's bezel.

Produced during the golden age of underwater exploration, when figures such as Jacques Cousteau helped bring diving into the public imagination..."By the time this reference was introduced around 1969 and produced in the early 1970s, the modern dive watch had already taken shape, but brands like Omega were still refining what it should be. This watch sits right in that moment, when tool watches were being built first and foremost for use, not for nostalgia.

The case was produced by Ervin Piquerez S.A. (EPSA), one of the most respected case makers of the era and the company behind many of the industry’s most capable dive watch cases, best known for their Super Compressor design. Ervin Piquerez S.A. wasn't just a case supplier. They were arguably the most important dive-watch case manufacturer in Switzerland during the 1960s and early 1970s. You can feel that lineage here. The case is thick, solid, and purposeful.

At approximately 38mm by 44mm with a substantial profile, it has real weight and presence on the wrist. In many ways, it anticipates the proportions collectors gravitate toward today.

The Bakelite bezel is one of the watch’s most interesting features. Unlike later aluminum inserts, Bakelite has a depth and gloss that gives it a distinctly vintage character. And because it is more fragile than later materials, well-preserved examples are increasingly difficult to find.

It’s easy to imagine how a watch like this would have been used. Not as a collector’s piece, but as an instrument - its bezel turned with wet hands to track elapsed time, its dial relied upon for clarity in conditions where visibility mattered. The design choices - bold markers, clear handset, strong contrast - were driven by function first.

Powering the watch is Omega's caliber 1002 movement with a quick-setting date.

It has all of its original parts. It presents in very honest original condition.

Its case is in honest untouched condition with scratches and wear - it has never been polished. Its bezel has only light wear - it presents very nicely.

Its sense of originality and vintage character continue to the dial. It dial is original and correct for the reference, showing natural aging to the lacquer top coat that has developed over time. This gives it a subtle mottled appearance under close inspection. The luminous markers have toned consistently, complementing the dial’s surface and reinforcing the watch’s authenticity.

Our of our Master Watchmakers has fully serviced the watch which consists of fully disassembling the movement, carefully inspecting each part, reassembling and lubricating the movement, and extensive timing testing and regulation (a $795 value).

We have also timed it on a machine that simulates it being worn on the wrist. It is keeping very accurate time.

Accompanying the watch is period bracelet that may be aftermarket and has a period correct Omega buckle.

For the finishing touch, we have equipped it with a brand new crocodile strap and aftermarket Omega style buckle making it ready for immediate enjoyment.

Included with the purchase is a one-year C.O.T. international warranty on the movement and its function and a custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity.

This is a Seamaster from a time when these watches were still tools - built to be used, relied upon, and worn without hesitation.

Your watch is important to us, and we will take care of it for its lifetime. We provide the best after sale care in the business with an extremely experienced team of four Master Watchmakers all of whom each have over thirty-five years of experience and a large number of parts. One used to be the watchmaker for an authorized Rolex dealership and was given special training by Rolex at their Beverly Hills Service Center.

Omega Seamaster:

Omega watches can be found on the wrists of many prominent figures including Pierce Brosnan, Michael Schumacher, Michael Phelps, Ernie Els, Prince William, and one graced the wrist of President John F. Kennedy. Omega has been the official timekeeper for 21 Olympic Games and is the official chronometer of NASA.

Omega is often known by watch lovers for its Seamaster line of recreational water sports watches. Combining a striking look with a high performance movement, they've received a strong following since vintage times.

Manufacturer: Omega
Country of origin: Switzerland
Serial no.: 33,137,856
Year built: c. 1971
Model: Ref. 166.088, Seamaster 120M
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Quick-Setting Date, Sweep Seconds
Designed for: Men
Case material: Stainless steel
Case condition: Its bezel has fairly light wear - it still presents nicely. The rest of the case presents as just short of mint with very light signs of previous polishing.
Dimensions: 38mm wide (excluding crown), 44mm long lug tip-to-tip
Dial: Matte black, signed Omega, luminous steel baton indices, aperture for the date, original and untouched with natural aging to lacquer
Hands: All original, steel luminous whitened and blackened "batons", blue seconds hand
Movement type: Caliber 1002, signed Omega, manually wound, finished in copper-beryllium, 20 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring
Jewels: 20 rubies
Beat frequency: 28,800 BPH
Bands: 1. Crocodile, fully stitched, padded, brand new and unworn with aftermarket Omega style buckle
2. Stainless steel period bracelet that may be aftermarket and has a period correct Omega buckle.
Crystal type: Mineral glass, Omega, excellent condition
Serviced: Our of our Master Watchmakers has fully serviced the watch which consists of fully disassembling the movement, carefully inspecting each part, reassembling and lubricating the movement, and extensive timing testing and regulation (a $795 value).
Timing: Timed to precision on a state-of-the-art computerized system.  It is keeping very accurate time.
Warranty: 1-year international C.O.T. warranty. Please email concierge@cotwatches.com for details. Your watch is important to us, and we will take care of it for its lifetime. We provide the best after sale care in the business with an extremely experienced team of four Master Watchmakers all of whom each have over thirty-five years of experience and a large number of parts. One used to be the watchmaker for an authorized Rolex dealership and was given special training by Rolex at their Beverly Hills Service Center.
Box/Papers: BOX - Connoisseur of Time watch presentation box; PAPERS - Custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity
Returns: 7 days full refund. 100% satisfaction guarantee

We offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee for all of our watches. If you are in any way unsatisfied with the watch we will fully refund the purchase price anytime within 7 days after the watch has been received. Our goal is to exceed our client's expectations throughout the buying experience.

All watches are packaged carefully and mailed double boxed in specially constructed, reinforced shipping boxes designed for high value items. All watches are sent fully insured with signature required. Most of our domestic shipping is done through FedEx. At times we will also use USPS Express Mail, and we can accommodate most requests for your preferred carrier. International shipments are sent USPS International Express Mail or FedEx.

The purchase price will be the declared value of the merchandise on any required customs forms. The payment of all customs duties, tariffs, and taxes are the responsibility of the buyer.

Also note that water resistance of vintage watches can no longer be guaranteed and is not covered under the watch's warranty. We do not recommend getting a vintage watch wet, even one that was originally designed to be waterproof.

To get an idea of how this watch will look on the wrist, please use the Watch Sizing Guide

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