1985 Ed Heuer Mens Rare 125th Anniversary Ref. 188.205 Moon Phase "Golden Hours" Chronograph - 18K Gold Plated & Stainless Steel

TAG Heuer

Item No. 8812SH

Today's auction showcases this quite uncommon and very fine Heuer "Golden Hours" chronograph with moon phase and date.

Released in 1985 as part of a collection to commemorate Heuer's 125th anniversary, shortly after their merger with TAG, it harkens back to the company's roots of making very fine mechanical watches.

Powering it is a superior Lemania 1883 movement, likely a practical choice at the time, but also an apt choice given its quality and Lemanias close ties to Heuer.

Moderately sized and elegant, it packs a lot in a small package. Its dial is nicely balanced and quite complicated, and the gold subdial surrounds add even more elegance. Heuer made several versions of this watch. This one, the first we've owned of this version, is our favorite because of its beautiful lugs.

I think these watches are significantly undervalued given their rarity, complexity, movement quality, beauty, and increasing collectability of Heuers, and will be a good long term buy. This is an awfully complicated, high quality, rare watch for the money.

It is in beautiful condition with all original parts down to the waterproofing seal - it presents as about a 9.6 out of 10.

Its case, whose top doesn't appear to ever have been polished, presents as mint with strong lug chamfers. Its untouched original dial is mint. And is complicated movement is running strong and true.

One of our Master Watchmakers has disassembled the movement down to its last screw and freshly overhauled it ($695 value). It is extremely clean, and all functions work perfectly.

For the finishing touch, we have equipped it with a new crocodile strap and aftermarket Heuer style buckle and meticulously detailed it making it ready for immediate enjoyment.

Included with the purchase is a one-year C.O.T. warranty on the movement and its function and a custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity.

  • Country of origin: Switzerland
  • Maker: Heuer (Tag Heuer)
  • Year made: c. 1985
  • Model: Ref. 188.205/1
  • Functions:  Hours, Minutes, Quick-Setting Date (advanced by corrector), Continuous Seconds, Moonphase, Full Chronograph
  • Designed for: Men
  • Case material: Gold plated and stainless steel
  • Case condition: Presents as mint with strong lug chamfers and its top doesn't appear to ever have been polished.
  • Dimensions: 34mm diameter (without the crown) by 41mm long
  • Dial:  White with black painted vintage styled Arabic indexes, gold rimmed subdials for the moonphase/date, continuous seconds, 30 minute and 12-hour registers, original, perfect mint
  • Hands: Original, blackened 18K gold "epees"
  • Movement type:  Lemania 1883 finished by Heuer, rhodium plated, handwound, 17 jewels, monometallic balance, flat self-compensating balance spring, shock resistant, screw fine regulator
  • Band: Crocodile, fully stitched, padded, brand new and unworn with aftermarket Heuer style buckle
  • Crystal type: Acrylic, original, excellent condition
  • Serviced: One of our Master Watchmakers has disassembled the movement down to its last screw and freshly overhauled it ($695 value). It is extremely clean, and all functions work perfectly. Your watch is important to us, and we will take care of it for its lifetime. We provide the best after sale care in the business with an extremely experienced team of four Master Watchmakers all of whom each have over thirty-five years of experience and a large number of parts. One used to be the watchmaker for an authorized Rolex dealership and was given special training by Rolex at their Beverly Hills Service Center.
  • Timing: Timed on a state-of-the-art computerized system.
  • Warranty: 1-year C.O.T. international warranty. Please email concierge@cotwatches.com for details.
  • Box/Papers: BOX - Connoisseur of Time watch presentation box; PAPERS - Custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity
  • Returns: 7 days full refund. 100% satisfaction guarantee

We offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee for all of our watches. If you are in any way unsatisfied with the watch we will fully refund the purchase price anytime within 7 days after the watch has been received. Our goal is to exceed our client's expectations throughout the buying experience.

All watches are packaged carefully and mailed double boxed in specially constructed, reinforced shipping boxes designed for high value items. All watches are sent fully insured with signature required. Most of our domestic shipping is done through FedEx. At times we will also use USPS Express Mail, and we can accommodate most requests for your preferred carrier. International shipments are sent USPS International Express Mail or FedEx.

The purchase price will be the declared value of the merchandise on any required customs forms. The payment of all customs duties, tariffs, and taxes are the responsibility of the buyer.

Also note that water resistance of vintage watches can no longer be guaranteed and is not covered under the watch's warranty. We do not recommend getting a vintage watch wet, even one that was originally designed to be waterproof.

To get an idea of how this watch will look on the wrist, please use the Watch Sizing Guide


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