1985 Ed Heuer Mens Rare 125th Anniversary Ref. 188.505 Moon Phase "Golden Hours" Chronograph - 18K Gold Plated & Stainless Steel

Tag Heuer

Item No. 8503

Today's offering showcases this quite uncommon and fine Heuer "Golden Hours" chronograph with moon phase and date.

Released in 1985 as part of a collection to commemorate Heuer's 125th anniversary, shortly after their merger with TAG, it harkens back to the company's roots of making very fine mechanical watches.

Powering it is a superior Lemania 1883 movement, likely a practical choice at the time, but also an apt choice given its quality and Lemanias close ties to Heuer.

Midsized and elegant, it packs a lot in a small package. Its dial is nicely balanced and quite complicated, and the gold subdial surrounds add even more elegance.

I think these watches are significantly undervalued given their rarity, complexity, movement quality, beauty, and increasing collectableness of Heuers, and will be a good long term buy. This is an awfully complicated, high quality, rare watch for the money.

It is in beautiful condition with all original parts - it presents as about a 9 out of 10.

A Master Watchmaker has performed any needed servicing on the movement. All functions work well, and amazingly it is keeping time on par with a brand new Heuer chronometer in our testing position. Photos of the inside available upon request.

For the finishing touch we have equipped it with a new calfskin leather strap making it ready for immediate enjoyment.

Like always, included with the purchase is a one-year C.O.T. warranty on the movement and its function, a custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity, and a new timing certificate.

  • Country of origin: Switzerland
  • Maker: Heuer (Tag Heuer)
  • Year made: c. 1985
  • Model: Ref. 188.505
  • Functions: Hours, Minutes, Continuous Seconds, Moonphase, Full Chronograph
  • Designed for: Men
  • Case material: Gold plated and stainless steel
  • Case condition: Near mint. The plating may have been previously redone.
  • Dimensions: 32mm diameter (without the crown) by 37.5mm long
  • Dial: White with black painted vintage styled Roman numeral indexes, gold rimmed subdials for the moonphase/date, continuous seconds, 30 minute and 12-hour registers, original, just short of perfect mint condition under magnification - appears mint to the naked eye
  • Hands: Original, blackened 18K gold "epees"
  • Movement type: Lemania 1883 finished by Heuer, rhodium plated, handwound, 17 jewels, monometallic balance, flat self-compensating balance spring, shock resistant, screw fine regulator
  • Band: Calfskin leather, fully stitched, padded, brand new and unworn
  • Crystal type: Acrylic, original, excellent condition
  • Serviced: A Master Watchmaker has performed any needed servicing on the movement. All functions work well. Your watch is important to us, and we will take care of it for its lifetime. We provide the best after sale care in the business with an experienced team of watchmakers both of whom each have over forty years of experience and a large number of parts.
  • Timing: Timed to precision on a state-of-the-art computerized system. Amazingly it is keeping time on par with a brand new Heuer chronometer in our testing position.
  • Warranty: 1-year C.O.T. international warranty. Please email concierge@cotwatches.com for details.
  • Box/Papers: BOX - Connoisseur of Time watch presentation box; PAPERS - Custom printed Connoisseur of Time Certificate of Authenticity; New timing certificate
  • Returns: 7 days full refund. 100% satisfaction guarantee

We offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee for all of our watches. If you are in any way unsatisfied with the watch we will fully refund the purchase price anytime within 7 days after the watch has been received. Our goal is to exceed our client's expectations throughout the buying experience.

All watches are packaged carefully and mailed double boxed in specially constructed, reinforced shipping boxes designed for high value items. All watches are sent fully insured with signature required. Most of our domestic shipping is done through FedEx. At times we will also use USPS Express Mail, and we can accommodate most requests for your preferred carrier. International shipments are sent USPS International Express Mail or FedEx.

The purchase price will be the declared value of the merchandise on any required customs forms. The payment of all customs duties, tariffs, and taxes are the responsibility of the buyer.

Also note that water resistance of vintage watches can no longer be guaranteed and is not covered under the watch's warranty. We do not recommend getting a vintage watch wet, even one that was originally designed to be waterproof.

To get an idea of how this watch will look on the wrist, please use the Watch Sizing Guide


Recently Viewed Items